Curry noodles, tomato broth, then the dry warmth of laab khua: three ways into northern Thai cooking. Spread the bowls and the final meal across your day, or share modest orders. These stops cross different neighbourhoods; use a ride when it makes the route easier.
Dishes below are suggested orders. Check current menus and hours.
At Mae Sai, compare the soft noodles beneath the broth with the fried strands above it. Keep the first few mouthfuls simple before adding the offered condiments. A small bowl leaves more room for the very different noodle stop that follows.
What I ordered
Khao soi: Chiang Mai’s curry-noodle conversation
Let a few fried noodles soften in the curry while keeping others crisp. The contrast is the point of this bowl.
Look for Nam Ngiao Yong at Siri Wattana Market. This is the tomato-and-pork chapter, with a sharper broth than the coconut curry at the first stop. Ask about the toppings, including blood curd, before choosing your bowl.
What I ordered
Nam ngiao: tomato, pork and a different northern noodle bowl
Try the broth with a plain strand of rice noodle, then with pork. Notice the tomato rather than expecting another khao soi.
Make Huen Phen a later seated meal in the old city. Order the cooked northern laab with rice and ask which vegetable accompaniment is available. Comparing a dry, spiced dish with the earlier soups gives the route a useful ending.
What I ordered
Laab khua: the fragrant, cooked northern style
Laab khua is cooked and warmly spiced. Pair a little with rice before adding anything sharp or hot.