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Chiang Mai · 3 stops

Two broths and a northern spice lesson

Curry noodles, tomato broth, then the dry warmth of laab khua: three ways into northern Thai cooking. Spread the bowls and the final meal across your day, or share modest orders. These stops cross different neighbourhoods; use a ride when it makes the route easier. Dishes below are suggested orders. Check current menus and hours.

Follow the suggested order, at your own pace.

2 of 3 stops available to save in Google Maps. Use the directions below for the remaining stops.

Two broths and a northern spice lesson
Photo: Takeaway · CC BY-SA 3.0
01

Khao Soi Mae Sai

29/1 Ratchaphruek Road, Chang Phueak

Khao Soi Mae Sai
Photo: Takeaway · CC BY-SA 3.0

A note from Leo Park

At Mae Sai, compare the soft noodles beneath the broth with the fried strands above it. Keep the first few mouthfuls simple before adding the offered condiments. A small bowl leaves more room for the very different noodle stop that follows.

What I ordered

Khao soi: Chiang Mai’s curry-noodle conversation

Let a few fried noodles soften in the curry while keeping others crisp. The contrast is the point of this bowl.

Directions to Khao Soi Mae Sai
02

Nam Ngiao Yong

Unit 19, Siri Wattana Market, 193 Chang Phueak Road

Nam Ngiao Yong
Photo: Takeaway · CC BY-SA 3.0

A note from Leo Park

Look for Nam Ngiao Yong at Siri Wattana Market. This is the tomato-and-pork chapter, with a sharper broth than the coconut curry at the first stop. Ask about the toppings, including blood curd, before choosing your bowl.

What I ordered

Nam ngiao: tomato, pork and a different northern noodle bowl

Try the broth with a plain strand of rice noodle, then with pork. Notice the tomato rather than expecting another khao soi.

Directions to Nam Ngiao Yong
03

Huen Phen

112 Ratchamanka Road

Huen Phen
Photo: Takeaway · CC BY-SA 3.0

A note from Leo Park

Make Huen Phen a later seated meal in the old city. Order the cooked northern laab with rice and ask which vegetable accompaniment is available. Comparing a dry, spiced dish with the earlier soups gives the route a useful ending.

What I ordered

Laab khua: the fragrant, cooked northern style

Laab khua is cooked and warmly spiced. Pair a little with rice before adding anything sharp or hot.

Directions to Huen Phen

Places change. Check current hours before a special detour.

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