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Hanoi · 3 stops

Hanoi: soup, rolls, hot pan

Rice noodles do three very different jobs here. Compare a soup bowl, a fresh roll, and the noodles served alongside turmeric fish. Pick separate meals; Trúc Bạch and the Old Quarter are not one compact tasting counter. Dishes below are suggested orders. Check current menus and hours.

No set route. Pick a stop and follow your appetite.

1 of 3 stops available to save in Google Maps. Use the directions below for the remaining stops.

Hanoi: soup, rolls, hot pan
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Pho Bat Dan

49 Bat Dan Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi 10000 Vietnam

Pho Bat Dan

A note from Leo Park

Test one: broth. Before lime, herbs or sauce, take two small spoonfuls. Then taste the noodle. Keep the first bowl straightforward so the comparison is about the soup rather than the condiment tray.

What I ordered

Phở: a bowl worth slowing down for

Suggested order: beef phở. Choose the beef preparation you prefer and let the unseasoned broth set the baseline.

Directions to Pho Bat Dan
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Pho Cuon Huong Mai

25 P. Ngũ Xã, Trúc Bạch, Ba Đình, Hà Nội, Vietnam

Pho Cuon Huong Mai

A note from Leo Park

Test two: the rice sheet without soup. A small plate of rolls lets you compare the wrapper, filling and dipping sauce without needing another large bowl. Save the fried extras for a different experiment.

What I ordered

Pho Cuon

Phở cuốn: dip lightly on the first roll. More sauce can hide the wrapper’s texture.

Directions to Pho Cuon Huong Mai
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Chả Cá Thăng Long — 6B Đường Thành

6B Đường Thành, Hoàn Kiếm

Chả Cá Thăng Long — 6B Đường Thành
Photo: Lionel Ng from Singapore · CC BY-SA 2.0

A note from Leo Park

Test three: assembly. The fish, herbs and noodles reach the table as parts of a meal. Follow the staff’s guidance around the hot pan and build a small first bowl before changing the proportions.

What I ordered

Chả cá: turmeric fish, dill and a hot pan

Turmeric fish with dill: start with a little fish, herbs and noodles. Add dipping sauce in small amounts.

Directions to Chả Cá Thăng Long — 6B Đường Thành

Places change. Check current hours before a special detour.

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