Give La Paz a coffee pause and a batchoy meal, then head towards J. M. Basa Street for siopao. The first two stops belong together around the market; the final leg is a separate trip into the old centre. Save the bun for later if the noodles have already filled you up.
Dishes below are suggested orders. Check current menus and hours.
At Madge Café, make the coffee the whole reason to stop. Ask how you would like it prepared and find a proper place to sit rather than hovering over the counter. There is a noodle bowl next, so extra food can wait.
What I ordered
Market coffee: a cup with room for conversation
Choose black or with milk according to your preference. Take a few sips before deciding the cup needs anything else.
At Netong’s in La Paz, let one batchoy bowl do the work of lunch. Taste a little broth, then compare noodles with the meat and crisp topping. Ask about offal if you want to choose the contents more deliberately.
What I ordered
La Paz batchoy: a rich bowl with an Iloilo address
Keep some crunchy topping out of the broth for a few bites. The bowl changes as it softens.
Finish at Roberto’s on J. M. Basa Street by asking which siopao are available. Choose a filling for your appetite rather than ordering the largest bun by reputation. If it is a takeaway parcel, ask how best to keep and reheat it.
What I ordered
Siopao: steamed buns with local loyalties
Break the bun carefully and let steam escape. The filling can make this a full snack, not just a little bread.